I just ate calves' feet.

Of the three days that I spent in Lyon, France, there is so much to say. I could talk about how perfect my travel buddies were, about how we managed to seamlessly transport ourselves around the city. I could talk about our well-priced, clean hotel, the Rhône river, Old Lyon with its cobblestone streets and medieval architecture. I'd like to talk about the Basilique Notre-Dame Fourvière, the extravagant Café des Négociants--where I had the best hot chocolate of my life. I should probably mention the opera house, and the high-end shopping that I couldn't afford, the enormous Parc de la tête d'or, the zoo. However, all that rests in my mind from my trip to Lyon can be summed up in one word: bouchon.

Place de Bellecour

Next to the river, crossing over into Old Lyon

Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Inside the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Espresso and hot chocolate at the famous Café des Négociants

Parc de la tête d'or

A bouchon is a typical restaurant of Lyon, and I can tell you first hand that no one in France, perhaps no one in all of Europe eats like this. At a bouchon you eat for hours, and it feels like you are in someones' kitchen. The servers act more like impatient mothers and--if you've found a good one---you will fight for a table, if you get one at all. Although hundreds of restaurants in Lyon claim to be bouchons, there are only twenty "official" ones. I tried to learn how to know if one is official, and the only answers I found were if it said "veritable bouchon" on the front window, and if there were creepy marionette-like dolls below the certification. I went to two restaurants while in Lyon, Chez Mounier and Chabert et fils.

Chez Chabert et Fils...first bouchon experience

Our first night, we  took a look at the menu outside of Chabert et fils to see what the prices were like and had a moment of reproach: "Wait...aren't andouillettes...intestines?" "Pieds du porc?....Pigs feet?!" We walked down the street to find something more...American friendly. But every restaurant was the same. So, when in Rome. We did it up, and I ate things I never thought I'd eat. Here's the summary:

Chabert et fils...aka Night one...aka What the hell am I eating
1. Saladier Lyonnais-museau de boeuf, cocos, harengs, pommes à l'huile, pieds de veau
Translation: Salad of Lyon: cow snout/muzzle, beans, smoked herring, potatoes in oil, jellied calves feet

2. Saucisson chaud pistaché avec cervelle de canut et pommes vapeur
Translation: hot sausauge with pistachios, servet with a creamy cheese sauce and steamed potatoes
*cervelle de canut literally means "the brains of the silk-weaver" because in the 19th century it accompanied every meal for weavers (it's not actually their brains)

3. Le guignol-genoise du rhum, appareil à la creme brulée, cassonade, crème anglaise caramalisé
Translation: rum soaked sponge cake, cooked like creme brulée, with soft brown suger and caramalized crème anglaise.
*If you've never tried crème anglaise, stop reading and go do that right now. 

Chez Mounier...aka Night two...aka...been there, done that.
1. L'assiette des crudités
Translation: vegetable plate (nothing tricky here)

2. Quenelles au homard
Tranlation: a puff pastry served in a rich, creamy lobster sauce, with a side of puréed potatoes and sauteed mushrooms

Needless to say, I left Lyon not hungry. Well, maybe hungry to go back.

Travel is shaped by your co-travelers

Like any other red-blooded foreigner, when I found out I had nearly two weeks of vacation, I jumped at the opportunity to spread my wings and see more of France. I took a bus to Vichy (closest "big" train station), then hopped a train to Lyon, and spent a few days exploring the city with two other assistants. It was such a great trip, first, because Lyon is a beautiful, exciting city, and second, because I unknowingly chose two super compatible co-travelers.

As much as I hate to admit it, the people you travel with have just as much, if not more of an influence on your experience than the place that you are in. This is because there are four types of travelers, who for better or worse, will shape your experience.

1. The dominatrix
The dominatrix has already planned out each second of each minute of your trip, prior to arrival. There's no need to interject what you would like to do, because the agenda has been made. Meddling with the agenda could prompt a meltdown. The plus side--traveling with a dominatrix will guarantee that your time is maximized. You will see more than most travelers, and will not waste time being lost or indecisive.

2. The speedster
Not a far cry from the dominatrix, the speedster is less interested in a thorough understanding of a place, and somewhat obsessed with seeing as much as possible, as quickly as possible. This "gotta catch 'em all" attitude will fuel travelers to go great distances, but only scrape the surface of a city. There is never enough time to sit down, to reflect, to meet locals.

3. The free spirit
On the opposite end of the spectrum, the free spirit is satisfied by simply being. They have few "musts" for a trip, and are perfectly happy wandering the streets, people watching, and window shopping. They want traveling to be simple, natural, and enlightening. Traveling with free spirits is ideal because they are easy-going, easy to please. But pair them with a dominatrix or speedster, and expect disaster.

4. The stick-in-the-mudd
I'm always confused as to why this type seeks travel in the first place, because upon arrival, all they do is eat McDonald's and drink Budweiser. Anything out of the norm or their comfort-zone is out of the question, and stressful situations easily affect the stick-in-the-mudd. Plus side, they like to move at a comfortable pace. And they're most likely stocked with American snacks and anti-bacterial hand sanitizer.

Of course these are extremes, and it is ideal to find a perfect blend of all three: someone who has a doable plan, and likes a blend of scheduled and wandering time.

Always a little lost, but never completely

It feels strange to post on a Saturday, but yesterday I was so caught up in a flurry of excitement that I couldn't bring myself to sit at the computer and blog about it. Classes wrapped up yesterday at 9 a.m., and I am now on vacation for a week! It feels very undeserved to have a vacation already, but hey--I'll take it. So I went back home and checked my email and found out that my boyfriend bought a ticket to visit me in France! I am ecstatic. He will be here December 14-24, and I feel like the luckiest girl in the world.

In further news, I finally have heat in my apartment. This may sound anti-climatic, but I have been absolutely freezing since I arrived. When I told the concierge that my heating is broken, she laughed and said that it will work when it's winter. I envisioned another month of wearing 14 layers of clothes, sniffling, and huddling over a pot of boiling water (yes, I actually did that).

Yesterday I was invited to eat lunch with the professors, and it was so great. I find that I am often a little lost in the conversation of a large group, but never completely. It was a pretty elaborate fete, in my opinion, with fondue, wine, beer, salad, and two mind-blowing desserts (apple tarte and some delcious creamy coconut concoction).

After, I went with my friend Astrid (art teacher at the school) to Vichy for the night. We did some shopping, of course. I have been pretty frugal so far, so I rewarded myself with a beautiful cream-colored boat-neck sweater. Her friend Damien came over for dinner, and we had "un repas typique" consisting of pasta, baguette and yes--wine. Over dinner I dabbled in more complex conversations, Damien practices Tai Chi, so he told me about that, and I talked about my undying dedication to yoga. Then somehow we started talking about the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, which required a dictionary. Still, I am becoming more and more comfortable expressing myself and my views in French, and I'm proud of that.

Then we went to see a film, The Artist. It was incredible-- a silent film in black and white. The story commences in 1927 and is more or less about a famous actor fading into oblivion when movies with sound became more popular. It was so well done, I am always impressed by films that can take a simple plot line and make it intricate and complex. We returned to Astrid's apartment, drank a little more, and then, much to my horror, I was given a salsa lesson. Yes, my first lesson of salsa in French.

I fell into an exhausted sleep and for the first time since I arrived, I had dreams in French! Ah, that is the best. That's when you know you're mind is really working hard, when a language drifts into your subconcious. My primary goal is to become fluent in French, and I am working tirelessly at it.

To make up for Monday...

This Monday I was too tired to blog, but to make up for it I'll add some photos of my weekend adventures. Enjoy!

La Mairie in Vichy

Cathedrale Notre-Dame in Clermont-Ferrand

Delicious dessert plate

Really full and really happy.

Another view of the cathedral

Okay, last one I promise. But isn't it beautiful?

First taste of la discipline française

One of the few things emphasized to me before I began teaching was attendance. I have to mark who is there, who is absent and report it to La Vie Scolaire each day. If a student is absent and I don't report it and something bad happened to him, I am responsible for that. So, scary, right? The last thing I need is legal trouble in a foreign country in a new profession. So I make a big deal out of attendance, checking and double checking.

And the other day, sure enough, there was a student missing. So I wrote it down. Let's call him A. When I reported it to the office, they seemed troubled, and confused. They asked me if I was sure. Yes, I am certain that A was not there. They told me to come to a certain room after my classes. Gulp. What's going on?
So I finish my work, and hurry back down, and there he is. Looking at me like a guilty puppy. Was he in your class? The teacher asked. No, I'm sorry he wasn't. Are you sure? Because he doesn't agree with you. I took a deep breath. No, this boy was not in my class.

So we go to another office. It was becoming clear that A was lying, and that I was terrified. His look of guilt had turned into annoyance and betrayal. He expected me to lie for him.

Eventually everything calmed down, the boy, post-smack down was dismissed to go to his other class, and it was explained to me that he has problems with attendance, and they have to keep a close watch on him.

I definitely understand that there needs to be a level of respect and of course, regular attendance, but this experience was definitely a cultural shock for me, seeing the way that students are reprimanded for bad behavior. Discipline in France has definitely come a long way, but it will surely take some time for me to adjust to the somewhat callous dealings with students. In the States, it is all so fluffy and politically correct. In France, they cut to the chase.

Between the three confrontations, I have broken a sweat, and I was beyond ready for some bread/wine/cheese/skype/yoga. Not necessarily in that order.

Top ten reasons why learning a new language is terrifying

In Amsterdam, feeling utterly defeated by my lack of language ability. I mean no way this is a real word.

It's been a while since I've featured a top-ten list, and it seems fitting, after my first week of teaching English inside the classroom and learning French outside the classroom. So without further delay...

1. It brings us back to infancy.

Nothing is more humbling than lacking the ability to express yourself. Suddenly you are resorting to miming, sign language, grunts, charades, just to tell someone you're hungry.

2. Perpetual awkwardness
People like to fit in. Even outgoing life of the party people. But when you are in a new country or in an environment where a new language is being spoken, you are the odd one out. Every time.

3. Personality loss
The first time I came to France, I was shocked at how frustrated I felt by my muffled personality, that I was unable to project with my limited vocabulary. Wait a minute! I'm funny! And smart! And a really big deal back home! They just didn't get it.

4. Everyone is talking about you
With time I've gotten over this, but when I first started to learn French, I just KNEW that everyone was talking about me. Every laugh was definitely at my expense.

5. Fulfilling stereotypes
We all fight them, but they are there. And whether you like it or not, foreigners expect Americans to speak only English, and our attempts to speak other languages are often mocked.

6. We get stuck in language comfort zones
I spoke of this in an earlier blog, but it is so easy to get really comfortable with introductory stuff, you know "Hi, my name is Stephanie, I like Brad Pitt and going to the beach." And then, out of no where, some smart ass throws me for a loop. I'll blush, mumble, incorrectly conjugate something before running away.

7. You'll never blend in
One of the things I'm embracing this go-around is that I will stick out like sore thumb, no matter what. Especially in a small town like Saint-Pourcain, everyone knows I'm a foreigner, and that attracts attention.

8. Offending someone is way too easy
Anyone who has spent time learning another language knows how easy it is to mispronounce a word and bam! You've just told someone to f*** off. Well that's a little extreme, but it is easier for a foreigner to sound rude, because they don't know the correct tense of a verb, or they are trying so desperately to communicate that they forget the particulars.

9. For a long time you will sound like an idiot
Face it. No matter how hard you study, the only way to become fluent is to practice, practice, practice.

10. You'll probably only catch half of what's being said.
This hasn't been too much of a problem for me so far, that is until I went to the bank. Oh la la. That poor woman. It took us over an hour, a dictionary, and a cigarette break to successfully open my bank account.

I am spending half the weekend in Vichy with a colleague from the lycee and the other half with a new friend who lives in Clermont-Ferrand, so plenty of awkward, challenging, foreigner moments to come. Stay tuned.

Get them to talk

The first week of teaching is in full swing! I've taught six classes so far this week, and got a pretty good idea of students' levels of English. Overall, I was really impressed, not only with English speaking capability, but with their eagerness to speak and listen. Once again, I am reminded of how Americans need to step it up and learn more languages. Not necessarily dedicate their lives to them, but second language acquistion develops the brain in a unique way and reminds individuals that their mother tongue is not at the center of the universe. You can connect with a person in a powerful way when you speak their language. I tell my students that in the classroom we only speak English, but outside of the classroom, I am a student as well, a student of French.

For this week and the next, I will mostly be doing introductory activities. I introduce myself, let students ask questions about me, explain the format and rules of the class. Then I distribute pictures of myself, friends, and family and let the students make comments and most importantly ask questions about them. For the TES LVR (essentially seniors with an English specialization) this activity proved to be too easy, it quickly turned into a comfortable conversation--which isn't bad but I need to be sure to challenge them. For the younger groups, the photo activity proved challenging, they mostly asked "Who it is?" and "His name is what?" So...we'll have to work on that. But it really helps for me to have a working knowledge of French, because I can understand their thought process when they formulate sentences.

Next, I let students give a brief introduction of themselves. They told me about where they were from, what they like to do, favorite foods, music, movies, etc. This again varied in complexity according to level. Finally, we played a game I coined "Tell Me." In an envelope, I put in little pieces of paper with statements like "Tell me about your family." "Tell me about a place you have visited." The students passed it around and would share for a few minutes (or seconds) on the subject. I liked this activity the best because it prompted discussion without preparation.

My goal now is to find ways to really engage the students. I get the feeling that they always discuss the same things in English. This is how I am in French--I can easily tell you about myself, where I am from, what I want to do, etc., but when the topic is varied, I often get lost. I need to develop topics for debates, comparisons and the like. I also want to integrate movies, current events, television shows and taboo topics. I have so many thoughts flying around I hope I can pull it all together. Point being--day one and two = success.

Staying fit abroad

The last time I was in France for an extended period of time (circa 2008) I ate a baguette and/or pastry every day, and drank alcohol every night. I had no idea what a kcal was or how it related to me and I made it my mission to experience French nightlife and recover the next day with carbs. Amazingly enough, I did not gain a lot of weight, but definitely came back feeling less than svelt (is that a word?). You know--clothes not fitting quite right, uncomfortable in a bikini, so on and so forth.

Four years later, my body is less forgiving. So this time around, I promised myself that I would not compromise my health for the experience. I am determined to find a balance, where I can enjoy all the wonderful food and wine here, while maintaining my weight. (Losing weight would be optimal, but lets not get too crazy). I think operation weight maintenance is doable.

So this brings me to my cultural frustration. In Saint Pourcain, people are undoubtedly more active and physical, because it is a more rural area. I've hardly seen anyone smoking, and their are many sports clubs to join. But there really isn't that "work out culture" that I miss in America. I miss keeping work out clothes in my back seat, personal trainers, elipticals, and tread mills. (never thought I'd say that). I suppose I'm very American in the sense that I'll never be satisfied by a long walk for a workout. No, I need to sweat.

 Every Tuesday and Thursday I run with a group for an hour around the town, but I need more than two days of work out to feel like my body is in check. More than anything I miss yoga. So I searched it on iTunes, and voila! A 45-minute practice that is really good! The instructor's voice isn't too annoying, and it really is good for cardio, stretching and relaxation. So my work out goals for my time here is to practice yoga at least three times a week and run with the group twice.

Dressing like a teacher 101

I have never been much of a fashionista. I went to a preppy upper-crust high school and to show my distaste for Lily Pulitzer and Lacoste, I wore tie-dye and birkenstock. Which carried over into college, where I varied my hippie-inspired wardrobe with tube tops and sundresses. (I went to school at the beach). Dumped into the "real-world," I was a nanny and a server for a year after graduation, which meant tank tops, gym shorts and yes, non-slip shoes.



Lacking style- but never personality in college

So here we are. I've always been a jeans and t-shirt kind of girl, but now I am teaching every day and really want to to change my wardrobe in a way that distinguishes me from the students. Thanks to a few generous gifts and the help of my sister, (she got the fashionista gene) I was able to buy some nice work clothes before I left for France. But now every morning, I stand in front of my closet befuddled, looking at my clothes as if they are puzzle pieces that don't fit.
I need an intervention. I wonder if What Not To Wear could do an episode in France. If they would make an exception for a girl who is searching for a style that matches her personality and professional goals. It's really true that one should present themselves for the job/life that they want and that if you look good, you will feel good. Here are a few looks/ideas that appeal to me:

I like this one because it is structured, feminine and creative, but not fussy. It's conservative but not boring; classy but I'm not yawning. It is a bit dressy for teaching, but I definitely like the structure of it.

Here's another one that looks appropriate for the school that I'm working at. Most of the teachers dress casually, but definitely polished and conservatively as well.

And last, there's this one, something a little younger and more comfortable. I really like the muted, understated colors in France, people seem to go for simple, high-quality pieces that fit extremely well.
So what to do? I guess like learning a language, practice makes perfect. In the meantime, send love and advice my way.

Helluva day




Happy Birthday to my little bro!

  I am so tired I can hardly keep my eyes open, but due to my extreme dedication to keeping my faithful readers happy, I feel compelled to write tonight.

Today is my brother's birthday, and it was really hard to be away. We have been bffs for as long as bffs count. Birthday's are the perfect opportunity to recognize how much someone means to you. I know that it will feel like this over the holidays; I suppose it's just the give-and-take of a situation like this. Get: awesome experience abroad. Give: time with friends and family.

This morning I woke up at the ripe hour of 6am and hurriedly got ready for my orientation in Clermont-Ferrand. I have been so anxious for this day, because it is meant to tie everything together and it is also a chance to meet other assistants and end my days of medieval village solitude. So first I took a bus to Varennes-sur-Allier, then a train to Clermont-Ferrand, where I met some really nice French girls who went to the university and they walked me to the school that was hosting my orientation.

I really expected today to be a drag, but I learned so much and felt so inspired by all of it, I acquired some excellent knowledge about teaching, the French education system, and my role as an assistant this year. All day I felt really lucky to be a part of this; I am realizing that it is essentially an exchange. I am sharing my language and culture in exchange to improve my French and experience their culture. Not all people get a chance to step out of their realm of comfort and challenge themselves in this way, and I am so grateful for it.

The session lasted all day from 9-5, and I made some great contacts with other assistants in my area. Out of all the things I learned today, these three made an impact:

1. Establish yourself as a leader in the classroom, immediately. French students are used to strict rules and structure, and it is more important that they respect you than think you are cool.
2. My role is not to teach grammar or teach Shakespeare, it is to get these students to talk. Because of their class size and lack of every-day necessity, they do not have a chance to practice. I need to find innovative ways to excite them about learning English.
3. Do not think of myself as a tourist. I am a member of the school's staff and an expert in my own language. I  need to exude confidence and feel comfortable, among the students and faculty. Don't be afraid to ask questions and for advice. I am here to learn and to teach.

On apprend à parler en parlant (one learns to speak by speaking)



Lycee/College Blaise Vigenere, the school where I teach

 "Being in a foreign country means walking a tightrope high above the ground without the net afforded a person by the country where he has family, colleagues, and friends, and where he can easily say what he has to say in a language he has known from childhood."
-Milan Kundera

I love Kundera. I have read The Unbearable Lightness of Being probably a million times, but each time I take away something new. I sympathize with a different character; I make different parallels to my own life. It's as if he wrote the novel 100 times and then somehow fused all the versions together.

Thus begins my second week in Saint-Pourçain-sur-Sioule. I survived a very quiet weekend, devoting myself to learning everything about the French language and education system, making lesson plans, and basking in the beauty of internet access in my apartment. Ah, the simple things.

So far I have observed four classes, and I have four more to go before I officially start teaching on October 10th. I have my orientation in Clermont-Ferrand this Wednesday, where I can't wait to meet other assistants (from the states and other countries). All of the students seem very nice, and anxious to speak/learn English. They treat me like a celebrity, which is amusing. During a Q&A today:

Student: Are you American?
Me: Yes.
Student: Are you funny?
Me: Yes, people tell me that.
Student: Well, can I have your number?

Being that most of these kids are taller than me (what are they eating?) and that I've been told I have a "baby face" I really hope that I will be taken seriously in the classroom. I want to have fun and be myself but also be respected and have control of the classroom. It's a balance that will probably take time and practice. But I am really excited about teaching--I truly feel like I'm at the right place at the right time.

There are many differences in the classroom here, for instance the students must enter the classroom one at a time, and stand at their desks until the teacher tells them they can sit down. It feels a bit rigid, but honestly it immediately sets the tone for who's in charge and calling the shots, which is a good thing. I am excited because the program is designed so that I will have small groups--no more than 12 or 13 at one time. This gives more time for individual participation, more time to talk. I teach three age groups troisième, seconde, and terminale (essentially 8th grade, 9th grade and 12 grade). I am beginning to set up lesson plans that work to generate discussions. If anyone is reading who has teaching/lesson planning advice, please don't hesitate to share.